Hello fellow travellers, Mihir this side!!!
Kashmir Great Lakes, hailed as one of India’s most incredible treks, offers breathtaking views and thrilling challenges. Spanning several days with peaks surpassing 14,000 feet, it boasts three high mountain passes, unlike typical Himalayan treks. Also, each day presents new heights to conquer and descents to navigate, weaving a tale of both beauty and adversity.
Excited by the allure of the Kashmir Great Lakes, my friend and I eagerly booked our trek, envisioning an adventure atop India’s crown. Plus, the excitement of visiting Kashmir was just as intense. Exploring Kashmir has been a dream for many, and I’m thrilled to make it a reality on my own.
Route from Mumbai to Kashmir:
We flew from Mumbai to Srinagar on Air India for Rs. 6,000. Also, in Srinagar, we pre-booked an Innova taxi for Rs. 3750 . Moreover, be cautious with local taxi prices in Kashmir; a driver quoted Rs. 7,000 for a 110-km trip to Sonmarg.
Things to do in Kashmir :
- Day 1: Reaching Our Base Cap of Trekking in Kashmir
It was a settling-down day in Kashmir, with a briefing on base camp rules and food timings.
- Day 2: Preparing for the Journey Ahead
On the second day, we woke up early at 6 a.m. in the chilling cold for some good exercises. This exercise is important for preparing us for the trek. After breakfast, we were instructed to get ready for an acclimatisation trek, a small 10–12 km hike to the Thajiwas Glacier. This experience gave us a glimpse of what to expect on our actual trek.
Later, we had a briefing session with our trek coordinator. He talked about life at high altitudes, shared past incidents where trekkers weren’t responsible, and educated us on what to expect. The most important point he made was about mindset. He said that the trek requires trekkers to be 10% physically fit and 90% mentally fit. At the time, we didn’t understand why, but we soon found out.
- Day 3: Trekking to Nichnai and the Army Checkpoint
We started our 18-kilometre trek to Nichnai (9000 ft). Shortly after beginning, we passed an Indian Army check post where our details were verified and phones checked for numbers starting with ‘+92’. They took our picture, and we continued. I used my usual trekking practice of varying my pace and taking small steps when tired without stopping. I reached the Nichnai campsite first, where the camp leader welcomed us with a drink.
- Day 4: Rainy Ascents, Starry Nights, and Moving to Nichnai Pass
Once all trekkers arrived, we were briefed on camp rules and the next day’s schedule. That night, it started drizzling, which continued throughout. Rain is the last thing you want on a Himalayan trek, as everything gets wet. Despite the rain, we donned our ponchos and headed towards the first of three passes, Nichnai Pass.
After struggling in the rain, we reached the top of the pass.
Pro Tip: Though it’s advised not to stay at high altitudes for more than 20 minutes, we waited over an hour for our group.
After resting, we continued in the rain towards our second campsite, Vishansar, near the LOC. Also, the Indian Army ensures our safety. At the campsite, the camp leader briefed us on the importance of this stop as a filtration camp.
That night, the skies were so clear that we could see the Milky Way.
- Day 5: Gadsar Pass, A Journey of Lakes
The trek was the longest and most challenging, as we tackled the toughest of the three passes: Gadsar Pass. However, it was also the day we would see the first of the ‘Great Lakes of Kashmir’. Thankfully, we had clear weather. After 30 minutes of trekking, we reached ‘Vishansar’, a stunning alpine lake with crystal-clear glacier water.
We took some photos and continued our trek. An hour later, we arrived at the second lake, ‘Kishansar’. Though beautiful, we were more excited about the view from the top of Gadsar Pass, where we could see both lakes simultaneously.
Also, the sight of the mighty Gadsar Pass was intimidating, but we pressed on, climbing steadily. After over three hours of strenuous effort, we finally conquered the pass. Seeing both lakes from the top was an emotional and breathtaking experience.
I asked our guide about the distance to our lunch point—just 2 kilometres more. The campsite was 8 km beyond that. Deciding not to focus on distances, we resolved to enjoy the journey fully.
After lunch, we reached Gadsar Lake, the most beautiful lake on our trek and featured on our trek completion certificates. We took photos and headed to our third campsite, Gadsar. Also, the campsites are named after nearby lakes, and knowing we’d passed the hardest part of the trek, we relaxed and bonded with fellow trekkers. I gave our trek leader a KitKat, which made him happy as he’s often in the field for 21 days with little contact with the outside world. We were told the next day would be short and relaxing, with no pass to climb.
Pro Tip: Anyone feeling unwell or unsure about continuing is advised to return from here. This motivated us to push forward with confidence.
- Day 6: Trek from Satsar to Gangabal Lake
“Today reminded me of the importance of a strong mindset. Although we expected a relaxing day, it turned out to be challenging. Prepared for difficulties, we tackled them gracefully yesterday. Surprisingly, today’s trek, though easier, left us tired. Yet, spotting ‘Nanga Parbat’ from Pakistan-occupied Kashmir thrilled us. We reached ‘Satsar’ Lake and a unique campsite. A short hike revealed another lake. Also, my bag felt weightless. The camp leader briefed us on boulder trekking for tomorrow. Overcoming boulders, we reached ‘Zaj Pass’ for a stunning view of ‘Gangabal’ and ‘Nandkol’ lakes. Descending, we headed to our final campsite, Gangabal.
After a 3-hour descent, reaching near Gangabal Lake felt like a triumph. We relaxed by the chilling water, taking dips, and enjoying the moment. After refreshing at camp, we gathered by the lakeside for deep conversations that reached a whole new level when like-minded trekkers came together.
- Day 7: From Peaks to Valleys, Reaching Naranag
The next day marked the final stretch of our journey, but the challenges persisted. A daunting 20+ km descent awaited us, spanning over 4000 ft from 11,000 ft to 7000 ft, leading to the village of Naranag, our trek’s endpoint.Also, at an army camp our bags were checked—a unique encounter with the Indian Army for me. The last leg tested us mentally as the village seemed within reach, yet the trail stretched endlessly. Finally reaching Naranag brought an overwhelming sense of accomplishment, capping off our Himalayan trek with immense satisfaction after all the effort we put in.
We were driven back to Sonmarg, a 2-hour journey. Our trek coordinator congratulated us and asked about our experience. Later, we shared our trek stories with upcoming groups and received trek completion certificates.
Best time to travel in Kashmir:
Excitedly, we reserve our spots for the end of July to start August, eagerly counting down the days until our adventure begins.
Also, the best time to visit Jammu and Kashmir is from April to October when the weather is pleasant and the valley blooms with flowers. Moreover, Summer is the peak tourist season, with mild temperatures. The Amarnath Yatra takes place in July and August.
Necessary things to pack:
- Umbrella/Raincoat.
- Moisturisers.
- Cotton Clothes.
- Woollen Clothes.
- Jeans, pants, trousers, and T-shirts.
- Sunscreen and moisturiser.
- Trekking shoes, preferably high-ankle ones.
- Carry water and snacks with you.
Tips for Travellers:
- Always check the travel rules for Srinagar. During the Amarnath Yatra, you cannot leave Srinagar after 3 p.m.
- Also, no prepaid phones would work, and postpaid phones for Vodafone won’t work outside Srinagar.
The journey budget was around Rs. 30,000. In Srinagar, we stayed on a houseboat for Rs. 2000 per room per night. We ate at a restaurant near Dal Lake, having Chinese food due to a curfew, which cost Rs. 200 per dish. Kashmiri Kahwa was Rs. 60. Flight costs were Rs. 12,000, additional expenses were Rs. 12,500, and bike rent was Rs. 1300.
My fifth Himalayan trek was unforgettable. Also, it was a journey that will stay with me forever—a trek to the Kashmir Great Lakes that I’ll always cherish.Wanderlust cravings.!! Fulfil your wanderlust desires by engaging with an array of travel tales at https://sowl.in/stories/!
