Greetings to all fellow travellers,
In June last year, the scorching heat of Delhi was unbearable, and I found myself yearning for a cooler escape. After some research, I stumbled upon the serene town of McLeodganj in Himachal Pradesh. The idea of a solo trip appealed to me, so I packed my bags and prepared for a long weekend getaway.
Overnight Bus Journey to Dharamshala: A Traveller’s Guide

I booked a standard bus ticket from the Himachal Tourism website a few days in advance, departing from Kashmiri Gate ISBT in Delhi for about ₹500-600. The bus was comfortable for an overnight journey, though not luxurious. For more comfort, Volvo and sleeper buses are also available.
The bus left at 11 p.m., with the first stop around 1-2 a.m. in a secluded area, where I stayed on the bus for safety. We made another stop at Chandigarh Bus Station around 3-4 a.m., which was busy and a good spot for a bathroom break.
We reached Dehra Gopipur Bus Station around 9 a.m., where I had tea and samosas for breakfast. From there, it was an hour to Dharamshala and another hour to McLeodganj by road. Alternatively, you can take a 10-minute gondola ride from Dharamshala to McLeodganj, which offers beautiful views of the hills. It’s best to book the gondola ride in advance to avoid long lines.
Exploring the Heart of McLeodganj:

A Day of Tibetan Cuisine, Cultural Immersion, and Scenic Views.
After a 10-minute ride, I got off at the Skyway and walked through the main market to my hostel, The Hosteller. The charming Tibetan town was filled with souvenir shops, authentic Tibetan and Chinese restaurants, and even a MINISO store. I tried laphing, a traditional Tibetan dish, from a local shop.
After a 15-minute walk, I reached a staircase that led to my hostel. I checked in around 1 pm to the all-girls dorm for Rs. 500-600 per day. After resting, I headed to the Dalai Lama Temple, which is near the Skyway in the main market. The temple, clean and serene, is a great place to experience Tibetan culture. I was fortunate to witness a beautiful sunset there.
Next, I walked to McLeodganj Square, exploring shops and stalls along the way. I bought a hemp bag, a Himachali cap, and fridge magnets, and enjoyed a potato twister. At the square, I took some photos and then went to Jimmy’s Kitchen for dinner. The restaurant offers floor seating, counter seating with views, and a terrace with a view of the town. I chose floor seating and enjoyed a pizza with a soft drink.
After dinner, I walked back to my hostel, stopping for a pastry. I reached around 10-10:30 pm. The route is less crowded at night, so it’s best not to walk alone. Once back at the hostel, I went straight to sleep.
Exploring Bhagsunath Waterfall and More

I woke up around 6:30 am, freshened up, and then left my hostel at 7:30 am with a few people I met there. We walked up the stairs again, heading towards McLeodganj Square. Near the Tibetan Monastery, we found a small eatery where we had aloo parathas and tea for breakfast.
After breakfast, we followed a map to the Bhagsunath Temple parking and then took the path to Bhagsunath Waterfall. The narrow, uphill trek offered stunning views of misty hills. At the waterfall, we took photos before continuing to Shiva Cafe, arriving around noon. The cafe had great views, and I enjoyed a pizza and coffee for 400-500 INR. After soaking in the scenery, we returned to the hostel, arriving around 2 pm.
After a quick nap, I woke up at 4 pm, got ready, and decided to visit St. John in the Wilderness Church, which is about 2 km from McLeodganj Square. Although the church was closed, the surrounding flora made the visit worthwhile. Nearby, I noticed a newly opened biodiversity park with dinosaur structures and children’s swings, but I didn’t go inside.
I walked 4-5 km to Café Illiterati for dinner but found it closed for renovations. Luckily, a woman suggested “The Other Space,” another café by the same owner just a few steps away. The café had a cosy vibe and a tempting display of pies and pastries. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony and browsing a small shop inside selling Tibetan fabrics. I ordered hummus with pita bread and a cappuccino for around 500 INR. While the food was average, the apple pie was delicious, costing about 120-150 INR.
Finally, after a satisfying day, I walked back to the hostel and went to sleep.
Discovering Dharamshala and Departure to Delhi

I woke up late, around 8 a.m. After packing my bag, freshening up, and checking out of the hostel, I had breakfast at a small shop. While eating, I booked a Skyway ticket to Dharamshala. Since my bus to Delhi was set for 4 pm, I decided to explore Dharamshala until then.
Upon arriving in Dharamshala, I asked locals for directions to the HPCA Stadium. They advised taking a local bus from the bus stand. The fare was Rs. 10, but the bus dropped me 1.5 km from the stadium. I walked the rest of the way, paid a Rs. 30 entry fee, and discovered the stadium was under renovation.
Nonetheless, the Himalayan backdrop was stunning. After a few photos, I grabbed a snack—aloo tikki and lemon soda—from a stall outside.
Then, I headed back to the bus stop. Nearby, I briefly visited the War Memorial before catching a bus to Dharamshala’s main market fare: Rs. 15. I also visited the Dharamshala Museum, which offered great views and insights into the area’s history.
Afterwards, I enjoyed momos and a cold drink at a nearby stall. I waited for my bus in a nearby park, enjoying the nice weather. Although a newly built mall was nearby, I preferred the park. My bus arrived around 3:15 pm, with a dinner stop at Una around 9 pm, where there were various dining options. We resumed our journey at 9:50 pm and reached Delhi by 5:50-6 am the next morning.
I had booked the bus ticket in advance through the HRTC website for Rs. 650. With that, my trip ended, and I resumed work on Monday.
Tips and recommendations for McLeodganj
- The best time to visit McLeodganj is May-June, which is ideal to escape the heat of the cities.
- Also, I recommend booking hostels in advance, especially if you prefer gender-specific dorms. The Hosteller is a good option for solo travellers.
- Moreover, don’t miss the local Tibetan cuisine, especially Laphing. Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen is a must-try for a cosy dinner with views of the town.
- Likewise, booking buses in advance is advisable. For local travel, walking is the best way to explore McLeodganj, but local buses are also a convenient option in Dharamshala.
- The packing essentials for McLeodganj were to carry a light hoodie, raincoat or umbrella, mosquito repellent, and basic medication for fever, cold, and flu.
The budget for the journey was 7-8K, spanning 3 days.in June.
This solo journey to McLeodganj was the perfect escape, offering a blend of adventure, spirituality, and relaxation. I came back refreshed and ready to take on the week ahead!Discover exciting travel stories at https://sowl.in/stories. Let your daydreams turn into reality with our captivating adventures!